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Taking Care of Paintbrushes

Paintbrushes are one of the most important tools for furniture refinishing. Investing in quality brushes is essential as you use them everyday and they effect the finish on your work. There are many different paintbrushes out there and finding the ones that match your needs is much like finding the right paint to use. I use all kinds of paintbrushes for varying reasons such as size, type of bristle, shape, and cost. I still use chip brushes when I want a certain finish but I expect them to fall apart and shed bristles like crazy. They are basically disposable and not long term brushes. These I’m not too concerned with maintaining but what about the brushes you spend $30-$60 on a piece? You want to make sure you are taking care of your expensive brushes.

I’m not the best at taking care of my brushes or gently handling them. I’m the type where my paint brushes are covered in paint splatters and never look like new after the first use. For that reason, I invest in durable brushes that can withstand the occasional overnight with paint still on it type of scenario. I can clean them and get them back to serviceable shape. What do you do when the paint has dried on the bristles? What do you do when the bristles have hardened over time? What do you do when the bristles have bent out of shape being in the water and crammed with other brushes? There are a few tips and tricks you can use to get the bristles soft, paint free, and in original condition.

Murphy’s oil soap will remove dried up paint and condition the paint brush bristles. I soak them in a solution of Murphy’s oil soap and water for 12 hours and then use dawn soap and a scrubby sponge to clean off the dried paint. I’ve been able to resurrect many paint brushes because of Murphy’s oil soap. Another way to revive your brushes is to soak them in fabric softener. Use 1/4 cup of fabric softener to a quart of water and soak your brushes over night. If you’ve been using oil based paint or oil based products with your brushes, you’ll want to clean them with some mineral spirits and soak in some turpentine to get all the oily residue off. If you’ve been using the brush to wax, use mineral spirits to clean.

Cleaning my paintbrushes that have not been near death and are just dirty with wet paint, I love using Scrubby Soap. It’s made of biodegradable oils so not harsh on your hands and smells citrusy. Using dawn dish soap works mostly as well. I will also spray my brushes that get a lot of residue with Krud Kutter’s tough task cleaner. You can use denatured alcohol to clean your brushes but just be aware that it will dry out the bristles. There are better alternatives to alcohol when cleaning. There are also specialty paint brush cleaning solutions you can use that work well like Krud Kutter Brush Wash-Cleaner and Renewer. I highly reccomend the Krud Kutter brand because their products are nontoxic, biodegradable, and eco friendly.

How you store your paint brushes is just as important as cleaning. If you want to be extremely thorough you can wrap a wet paper towel around the brush bristles after it has been cleaned, put the brush in a zip lock bag or wrap with cling wrap and store it into your refrigerator. It will be ready to use when you need it. Never store your paint brushes with the bristles down in a container as it will splay the bristles. I hang mine on my peg board if I can or store them with the bristles up in a container. I just dampen the bristles with water before I need to use them so the paint does not go on too thick or dry quickly on the bristles. I use Cling on brushes a lot and those you store in clean water. Before I got the Cling On brush keeper my brushes would get bent out of shape with splayed hairs but now that I’ve been using the brush keeper it’s been a game changer. It’s a big fancy stainless steel bucket with 8 rubber holders to prevent the brushes from being crammed on the bottom. It’s also allowed me to easily switch brushes while I paint.

If your brushes are splayed and have the annoying stray hairs sticking out here and there, you can fix it by wrapping some twine around the clean and damp brush bristles loosely. Let the brush dry and the bristles should be back to normal. Making sure you don’t keep the brush bristles down so they rest on a surface while storing, will help to stop this from happening. Maintaining your paintbrushes is essential if you don’t want to keep replacing them. However, if you forget to clean them after each use, you can still revive your dried up paint brushes and bring them back to life.

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Blending with Metallic Paint

Metallic Moroccan Dresser

One of my favorite finishes to create is a blended surface using metallic paints. It is absolutely possible to blend any kind of paint, in my experience and each type just takes a specific technique because of the different qualities in each variety of paint. Metallic paints are thinner, acrylic based, and dry fairly quickly especially when you apply them in thin layers like I do to avoid obvious brushstrokes. Metallic paint vary in coverage from transparent to opaque and this effects the finish as well and how I layer them. I will share a few of my tips when it comes to blending metallic paints.

The base coat of the surface is extremely important in that it impacts the color of the metallic finish and how many coats you need to use to get adequate coverage. I usually try to use a shade similar to the paints I am using. For example if I want a pearly white finish I would paint the base with white primer and paint. This will give it a true white color as opposed to if you used a base of grey paint. What kinds of paint do I use for the base? I have used chalk based paints, enamel, and milk paints. My preference depends really on the color and the finish I want. For more rustic boho blends I will use chalk paints and for a smoother, immaculate finish I prefer milk paints in that they self level and you rarely get any brushstrokes. Metallic paint is so thin that the base texture will appear so make sure you sand any scuffs and scratches on the surface.

I use synthetic brushes with metallic paints. I highly advise not to use a natural bristle brush as they shed and will give you a rougher texture. When creating a base you can paint it in one solid color or blend various colors to give it a more apparent transition in metallic colors. When I painted my base for my most recent Moroccan sunset inspired piece, I used a base of General Finishes barn red milk paint. The warm tones of the metallics I was using would be enhanced with the red base. I used orange, reds, yellows and pinks so they are all complimentary to red. If I was using blues, silvers, purples, and colder tones, I would paint the base a cold tone as well like gray or any of the above colors. If your base is darker then the metallic paint you are using, it will appear darker. I rarely use a white base unless it is for a shade of white metallic.

When blending, apply the paint with a damp brush and go in one direction. This will help with a smooth finish and better blended look. I usually use the same brush to apply all the colors unless I am doing a very light color with a dark color. Using the same brush helps with the color transition and making the shades meet without too much of a stark contrast. For my Moroccan dresser I used the same brush and applied the darker color first and from there, onto a gradually lighter shade. I did the copper first, moved on to a orangish hue, dark yellow, and layered the pink on last. Let the layers of paint dry first before applying the next thin layer. While wet it looks rougher then it usually is once dried so don’t worry if it looks different then what you are wanting. Let it dry before deciding if you need to apply another layer. I sweep the paint on in one direction and mist my brush with water as needed to keep it damp and the paint.

When the paint starts to seize and harden using your brush to move it will cause it to drag and look patchy and rough. Work quickly while the paint is wet and leave it alone. Do not overwork the paint. This is the most common problem with new users of metallic paints. It is best to have a gentle touch with metallics and lightly brush them on the surface. They are not thick like chalk paints and not porous so that it allows you to play around with them and blend by spraying water on the surface like chalk paints. Do not spray water directly onto the metallic paint as it will cause droplets to form that will interrupt the smooth coverage of the paint. Dampen your brush to keep it wet. The magical thing about metallic paints is that blending can actually look much more smooth. You can apply a thin layer or a certain metallic color on top of the one you used first and that will give it a light glaze like effect on top of the metallic color underneath it. For example if you apply a thin coat of gold on top of a blue or red metallic, it will give it a gold shimmer. The more layers of it you apply on top the more apparent the top color will be. When I applied the pink metallic on top of the dark gold and orange, it gave it a pink glow that was not opaque. I’ve created my signature peacock finishes this way.

Metallic paint is a light reflective paint so you want to make sure you apply it under bright lighting. When you examine the surface at different angles the coverage will appear differently and show you where it is less and more. It looks very differently under varying lighting making it difficult to capture the true color with a camera. The play of color under light is what I find magical about it as it shifts in tone. It can look lighter and darker from one moment to the next. Practice on a small surface until you find the right technique for the finish you want. Once you become familiar with painting using metallics, I’m sure you’ll find their complex beauty very unique and mesmerizing.

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How to Create a Faux Staging Wall

A staging wall is extremely important for the presentation of your furniture piece and can create an atmosphere that gives you a signature style. For quite some time, I’ve been using a wall in my home that is like most walls, white with texturing. It’s not awful and is certainly neutral so that I can stage any kind of design in front without it clashing with my furniture. It makes for great catalog-like photos so that on my Etsy shop and other listings it shows clean, consistent, and clear.

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with a white wall. Any wall at all is a must for staging. Being me, I decided one day that I couldn’t stand having a white wall anymore and pondered ‘how I would be able to have a creative wall that is unique and yet serves the purpose of enhancing my photos despite my diverse range of furniture design styles? What color can I use? What design can I do? How unique can I make it? What would work with every style of furniture and yet be a statement?

I couldn’t come up with a decision that satisfied me. There are neutral colors that will complement any other color such as gray, beige, or black but I didn’t feel particularly inspired by painting my wall just one color.

I thought of all the staging walls I’ve seen over the years and how some artists have ones that automatically identify them to the viewer because it is so distinctive. But these artists have a consistent style and I wanted to be able to do goth, industrial, modern, farmhouse, shabby chic, western, boho, eclectic, and more while not worrying my wall wouldn’t work with what I create.

I wanted the freedom to paint as I feel and I wanted the same for the wall I would create.

There was only one solution: create a faux wall that can be swapped out according to what would work best with the furniture I am staging at that time. I decided to do white wainscoting on the bottom because I love the two-tone look of elegant wainscoting and something colorful on top.

I purchased wall panels and the wainscoting from my home improvement store. I found a 4 x 8 white wall panel made of flexible plastic that was pretty lightweight. I then affixed strong velcro across the back of it and to the wall above the wainscoting. I did this so that I could create as many wall panels as I wanted while allowing for easy removal by simply peeling them off and putting up another one with the same velcro. It would allow me to experiment with a diverse range of wall designs, much like my furniture.

In my mind, there was never going to be a perfect wall that would work for everything I do. I was thrilled at the chance to finally paint all the walls I’ve been inspired by and wanted to create but couldn’t feasibly have all in my home. Yet, sometimes, this mom’s brain comes up with a brilliant idea once in a blue moon.

We set up my faux wall over my white wall with the velcro as I had planned. I used industrial velcro that is 2 in. wide and 15 ft. long. We cut the strips into lengths needed to cover the perimeter of the wall panel so it would be nice and flat against the wall.

It was like setting up a blank canvas on my wall. Now I could paint it as I chose as often as I chose. I could share a range of wall designs with everyone and not worry about it being a permanent fixture.

My excitement grew with all the ideas that swirled in mind. I couldn’t wait to begin.

Stay tuned for what I created with my new faux wall.

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How to Ship Furniture

Shipping furniture doesn’t have to be a complicated ordeal. Companies are now making it easier for people to ship furniture and other items with ease.

Uship.com is a fantastic way to support small businesses by booking with private carriers with reasonable rates. You get white glove shipping without paying exorbitant prices and get to know reliable carriers. It’s my favorite way to ship besides using the carriers I have gotten to know over time. Watch my detailed video for booking on uship.com to get your furniture listed and seen by private carriers.

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Achieving the Perfect Top Coat on a Stained Table Top

This weekend I worked on getting the perfect finish on a dining table top. It has a veneer top which makes it difficult to stain evenly and top coat. I kept getting streaks in my top coat and was about to pull out my hair in frustration. I’ve had to sand and restain, sand some more, apply another layer of top coat, and sand again; well you get the picture. I’ve finally managed to get a streakless finish and thought I would share what I’ve learned so you don’t make the same mistakes I did.

I used java gel stain from General Finishes which is an oil based stain. It’s thicker then regular stain so more like a paint in texture, but I love how it provides even coverage more than regular stains and you can use it like paint in some situations. Oil also penetrates more deeply than water based stains which sit more on the surface. Always wipe on some mineral spirits on the surface you are applying the gel stain beforehand. This will give you better and easier application as you are wiping the stain on and off. It avoids the splotchiness which can occur. I used a foam brush to apply the gel stain, worked in small sections at a time to wipe it off with a lint free rag in the direction of the wood grain. Keep going until all of the surface area has been covered. It must dry for 12-24 hours before top coating with an oil based top coat or 72 hours if you are using a water based product as we all know oil repels water so a longer drying time is needed for the oil to be absorbed.

I let it dry for a day and used Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane in Satin. It is an oil based top coat. I love how oil based top coats make the wood look richer so I chose to use it and also because I had used the oil based gel stain. It has a yellowish tint which gives the stain an amber hue. I’ve heard wonderful things about General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Urethane as being easier to apply so I will try that next time but this is based off of my experience with the Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane.

I used a wide foam brush to apply it. You an also use a good quality synthetic bristle brush. Do not use a roller or you will get air bubbles. I applied one layer, over lapping my strokes and going in one direction. I let it dry for 6 hours and applied another layer. I began noticing streaks under my bright lighting. I used a 3M Scotch-Brite pad and wet sanded in between layers as it dried. You should get a white powdery residue and not gooey or it means it hasn’t dried long enough. Sand in one direction. I did this by hand. You wet sand by wetting the pad with water as you sand. this helped eliminate the streaking. After I had applied 3 regular layers like this with my foam brush, I thinned the polyurethane with some mineral spirits so get it more in the consistency of a wipe on poly. I used my foam brush to apply it again. No sanding in between this time as it was not needed. I allowed it to dry 2 hours or more before applying on another thin layer. Finally I had achieved the perfect glossy top coat.

That sounded like a lot of work because it was. I’m hoping my experience makes it easier and less frightening for you to create a perfect stained and sealed table top. Dining room tables can be intimidating to refinish but with the right technique, they don’t need to be.

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Glass Bead Gel Stenciling

I’ve used many products for raised stenciling but my new infatuation is with glass bead gel. Glass bead gel is a paste that is formed with microscopic glass beads to give you a unique texture for any type of medium. The one I use specifically is from Modern Masters Inc. The technique for applying it is much like one for any type of paste. The texture you get once the gel has dried is a smooth and durable. I love running my fingers over the surfaces where I have applied glass bead gel and it feels like braille.

Parisian Bar Cabinet Doors

The gel is translucent so if applied on by itself it will give you a sparkly, textured surface. The effect is rather stunning . I usually mix my bead gel with a bit of metallic paint so that it has color but still has the pearlescent sheen. The ratio is roughly 1 tsp to 1/2 cup. You don’t need a lot because the paste is translucent, so it picks up the color easily without diluting it as if you were using white colored paste. It will also darken as it dries so the color you see initially isn’t an accurate gauge on how it will look upon finish.

Dried Glass Bead Gel

I love using stencils with the glass bead gel to get sharp and amazing patterns with a definite wow factor. I use 3M spray adhesive on the backs of my stencils first so that they will be fixed in place with no bleed through to mar the crispness of the fine details. It also doesn’t leave behind sticky residue that will ruin your surface. I apply the paste with a spatula and use a trowel to get it evenly on. When I peel off the stencil, the design that emerges is always stunning. There’s no need to topcoat the dried bead gel surface as it is impossible to scratch once fully cured.

To me, the bead gel surface looks like sea foam. It’s a luxurious product that gives any surface depth, dimension, texture, and color. If you haven’t tried raised stenciling with it, it’s a must on the check list.

Imperial Damask
Alessandro Flourish
Garden Dream

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Sealing with Resin

Using resin can be very daunting when you have never used it before or maybe you did and had a failed attempt. It’s much like baking, the proper measurements and steps are essential for successful resin coating. I prefer to use epoxy resin with UV protection so it doesn’t yellow over time. I love sealing my hand painted surfaces with epoxy resin because it protects it better than any other product and enhances the colors, giving it a glossy wow factor. It looks high end and the extra effort is well worth it, in my opinion. Don’t be intimidated by the seemingly complicated process. Here’s my step by step guide for resin coating.

Resin comes in two parts: the gloss coating and the hardener solution. It takes the chemical reaction of combining the two for the resin to harden with a clear surface. It’s stays viscous when unmixed. You measure in equal parts for both solutions. I use two equally sized plastic cups to measure my solutions as it’s cheap and disposable. You won’t want to wash what you measure it with later, trust me. It’s sticky and very difficult to remove.

What you will need:

  • Epoxy Resin
  • Disposable measuring cups
  • Disposable container for mixing and combining
  • Large mixing stick
  • Gloves
  • Drop cloth
  • Tape
  • Culinary flame torch

You’ll want to protect your floors with a drop cloth even if it’s in your garage, The resin will drip onto the floor and create a sticky mess. First I prepare my surfaces being coated by resin by cleaning them and making sure no stray particles floating in the air are on it. Your surface must be dry. I let painted surfaces dry for at least 24 hours prior to coating. If it is a stained surface, make sure it is dry as per the instructions given by the company. I tape off the underside of my surface along the edges. If you are wanting the sides to not be coated by the resin, tape them so that the resin can still drip over without forming a lip later. The resin will form droplets underneath and it’s much easier to tape off to remove the droplets cleanly once it has dried. Make sure your tape is on securely by burnishing with fine grit sand paper or a burnish block. You don’t want the resin to seep under the tape. Elevate your surface. If it’s the top of a piece of furniture, make sure the sides are protected with plastic wrap or some other covering. In this case, my doors were removed from my piece so I had to elevate it with some large containers. This is to allow the resin to drip over and not pool around the surface.

Wearing gloves and a mask in a well ventilated area, measure the parts so they are equal. I have seen some people use a small scale to weigh the containers to make sure they are equal. Pour the parts into a larger container in small parts at a time. It doesn’t have to be poured exactly in even parts because when you have it all mixed it will be in equal parts. Using your mixing stick, stir in the large container for a minute. Make sure you scrape the sides and bottom of the container. Mixing thoroughly is one of the most important aspects of successful resin coating or your resin will not harden completely and the surface will be sticky. Add more from your measuring cups into the large container about 1/4 of a time depending on how much resin you are mixing. The gloss coating solution is thicker than the hardener solution so at the final pouring I pour the hardener part into the cup with the gloss coating solution and mix it in there before pouring it all into the large container so every bit of resin gets into the mixing container.

After you have thoroughly mixed your resin, you will notice that there are air bubbles in it but don’t worry, it won’t affect the surface because the torch will remove any air bubbles. Pour your resin over the surface evenly across the entire area as you can. You can use your mixing stick to smooth it over the entire surface or use a plastic putty knife to spread it across. Having more resin than you need is better than having too little. You want it to drip over the surface as it levels to get an even and smooth coating. Smooth it over the sides of the edges if you are wanting it to coat over the sides as well. When you have spread it over all of the surface area, use your torch and holding it over your surface a few inches away, quickly torch the resin surface in a waving motion. Don’t hover or it will burn the resin. This pops all of the air bubbles and helps your resin level. When you no longer see anymore air bubbles popping, you are done with torching. You’ve reached the finish line of the resin coating. All you have to do now is let the surface harden which will take 24 hours or more. Make sure no floaties will get on the surface somehow by floating in the air, so no fans going. It would be a shame to have the little particles stuck on your surface by accident.

When your resin has hardened you can remove the tape. You can use a box cutter to help remove the tape if it’s stuck by going underneath the tape. It take resin a month to fully cure and harden completely. During the curing process, don’t place anything on the surface as it can scratch the resin and do not expose it to extreme heat. Enjoy your beautiful finish and the glass like effect on your surface.

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Creating Replicas of Hardware with Hot Glue Moulds

What do you do when you have furniture missing some of the hardware or details? For my latest project, I have a serpentine dresser that is not in the best shape, to say the least. It has gorgeous brass hardware I have not seen the likes of before and finding exact replacements for the missing pieces is a daunting task.

It features knob backplates and detailed escutcheons. Luckily, none of the knobs and pulls are missing but the escutcheons have only one pair of each kind as well as the backplates. I love the original hardware, so for this project, I opted to recreate replicas of the missing pieces. It takes a bit of creativity but it’s not as difficult as you might think to create some convincing copies.

There are many options when it comes to making your own moulds. You can purchase mould kits that have clay or silicone material with which you can use to create a mould. I decided to go with a less fancy option and use my hot glue gun to create a usable mould. You must use a large hot glue gun and not one of the smaller versions, as the hot glue will set too quickly due to the diameter of the hot glue coming out and make for an imperfect mould that’s lumpy.

I plugged in my hot glue gun and as it was heating, I spray the original escutcheon and back plates with some WD-40. This will help me pop out the pieces from the hot glue once it has set, more easily. If you don’t have WD-40, any type of slick lubricant will work like oil, vaseline, butter, etc.

Set the piece you want to make a mould of on a flat surface with the details facing up. I then cover the pieces with hot glue generously as it lays on the surface so that the surface of the piece is entirely covered and the edges have a generous covering of hot glue as well. I did this over parchment paper for easy clean up later.

Allow the hot glue to set and cool for at least 15 minutes. It will get more cloudy as it cools. Once it has hardened, pop out your pieces gently. The lubricant should make it easy to do so. There you have it, easy peasy moulds from which you can cast replicas with from the material of your choosing. You can use paper clay, modeling material, wood putty, bondo, or resin. I chose Amazing Casting resin for this because I like how it sets in 10 minutes and the details come out clean and crisp with no cracking or shrinking plus it’s durable.

I spray the inside of my homemade moulds with some WD-40. Use whatever lubricant you have handy. I measure and mix my resin. Resin comes in two parts and you measure equal parts of each solution together before you cast. I mix with a popsicle stick in a plastic cup. You can feel the resin heat up the longer you mix so work quickly. I pour enough resin within the mould so that it is even with the rim of the mould and scrape off any excess from the back. Allow the resin to set. Amazing Casting resin turns white as it sets.

I popped out the resin moulding after the material has set. You can just lightly touch the surface to see how much it has hardened. I tear off the excess bits from the moulding for a clean, detailed look. My original brass hardware is gold so I had to spray my moulding with some Rust-Oleum metallic spray in gold to match the original color of the hardware. I added a bit of redesign with prima’s decor wax in eternal for the perfect shade of gold after the spray had dried.

Once my replicas have dried completely and hardened, they are ready to be applied onto my dresser. I’m so happy that I went with the original hardware for this very special piece. Can you spot the “fakes.”

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Smoky Mercury Glass Mirror Effect

I’ve had a lot of interest as to how I turned an old window into a decorative mirror. I’ll try to be as detailed as possible so that those of you reading this can recreate this project for your own home. It would be stunning on a mantle or just hung on a wall. The image I used is a redesign with prima transfer.

When my hubby brought this antique window home for me, I was surprised by its size. After contemplating how I could re-purpose it, I recalled that I had a prima transfer that would fit perfectly within it and I knew immediately that I had to create a smoky, mercury glass “mirror.” This particular transfer is called “Dans La Vie.” It’s 27″ x 36″

Antique window
Where caulking is missing.

First step: the window. Old, antique or vintage windows often have the interior trim or caulking falling off. This is what holds the glass in the frame so, if it continues to fall off, your glass will have nothing to hold it in place and that can be a disaster. I had to peel off the old caulking and re-caulk.

After it has dried for a day I used Rust-oleum’s mirror effect spray on the side opposite of where I want it to be a mirror; basically what will be the back of my mirror. Spray it a foot away from the surface, sweeping back and forth with your arm to coat evenly. Lie the window flat on the ground to prevent any dripping. I would advise wearing a mask while you spray. Once you’ve covered the surface evenly let it dry. It should only take 30 minutes at the most.

Rustoleum Mirror Effect Spray

If you want an aged, antique mirror effect, which I did, spray some Windex while the mirror effect coating is still wet, erratically on the surface. The areas where the windex spots will be where you have the black little speckles you see on antique mirrors. After it is dry, I sprayed black paint over the silver surface of the mirror effect spray on the back. This will block out light from showing through the mirror from the back. For a fun colorful effect, try other colors.

Next, I painted the frame. I painted it in vintage duck egg first. I then applied a paint crackling solution over it once it is dry. I allowed it to dry for 30 minutes and then I painted it in dropcloth which is a shade of white. When it crackles you see the blue come through and it makes an interesting pattern. I distressed lightly by sanding to make the blue pop through a bit more. 

Now that the mirror has been created, I apply the transfer. Prima transfers come in sections so that it’s easier to apply. You can also create your own design by piecing it together how you prefer. I opted to stay true to the original design. I put all of the three parts onto the mirror surface the way I wanted and then taped them down so that they won’t shift when I peel off the white backing on the transfer that keeps it from adhering onto another surface.

It’s important to peel the white backing off slowly because once the transfer touches the surface it’s pretty much stuck on there. A stick comes with each transfer and you use it to smooth the transfer so there are no wrinkles or air bubbles. I like to smooth it especially on the edges with my fingertips. If some of the design is still stuck on the clear part, just carefully stick it back in place and press on it until it rubs off and sticks.

This is why taping it down is so important, it will ensure that the transfer doesn’t accidentally adhere crooked while you are rubbing. I like using a brayer over the transfer once it is on the new surface to get rid of any air bubbles or wrinkling without damaging the transfer. See my transfer blog post for more detailed instructions.

Matte Spray and Varathane Poly Spray

Now that the transfer has been applied, you have finished the most difficult part. Last comes the smoky, frosted mirror effect on the front. I used a matte, clear spray and sprayed it on the front surface, concentrating more on the areas I want less reflective. You can also wipe it off with Windex in areas and spray again for varying tones of frost.

I spray on a clear polyurethane after the matte spray so that the transfer is further protected from scratches as it can tear. This is optional and you don’t have to add the spray on poly to achieve the frosted effect though it does enhance it. There are also specialty frosted effect sprays you can use as well. I had the matte spray on hand and it worked for me on this project.

You can now clean the mirror if you need to and not worry about the transfer peeling or the frosted effect coming off. Whew. That was a lot of instruction but that’s all there is to it. I added some D rings and attached a wire on the back so that it can be hung easily. I love up-cycling old windows with transfers. It’s an easy way to create wall decor you can personalize for your home.